Colour hero: Andie MacDowell

Today we are going to visit the world of Dark Autumn.

Actress and L’Oreal Queen Andie MacDowell will be our tour guide.

There are a few reasons to choose Andie on this adventure.

Firstly, I really admire her approach to beauty.

She says she doesn’t pass judgement on others but prefers a more natural look.

Me too.

Perhaps because of this aesthetic, Andie really knows what suits her.

She is abundantly aware she’s a Dark Autumn and wears these colours a LOT.

When you repeatedly see someone dressed in a wide range of specific colours from the same palette - over and over again for years - it’s no accident.

Andie also dresses for her body shape like a virtuoso.

Plus she is ageing naturally and elegantly, even allowing her hair to grey.

Andie is our colour hero of the day.

Before we go any further, let’s remind ourselves what Dark Autumn is all about.

This season encompasses maximum darkness with glowing heat and rich softness.

We encounter an opulent, spicy palette; dense with old-world luxury.

The weight of centuries of grandeur.

The jungle queen and the amazon warrior.

Military uniforms trimmed with medals and buttons.

Dark Autumn smells like frankincense, mahogany and black coffee.

It feels like hand woven Persian rugs.

It sounds like the clink of horses’ harnesses and the creak of leather.

The quality of light is night-time bonfires and bronze dinnerware glinting beneath abundant candelabras.

This is a palette alive with vast, dynamic, and - at times - dangerous energy.

A volcano, a glorious sunset, a tiger prowling through the forest at dusk.

There’s a burnt organic quality to the palette, like it’s been smudged with soot.

Dark Autumn is also coziness with edge.

Think dark chocolate laced with chilli.

Welcome to the powerful earth.

Blackened smoulder is at the heart of Dark Autumn.

This is a unique feature other seasons cannot capture.

They have their own magic.

When surrounded by the palette, skin will take on a particular burnished quality, even when very pale.

Like a fire is glowing behind the face.

Watch out for that effect as we walk through a ton of Andie’s amazing looks.

Here we go!

Because of the season’s heavy depth, black is an important element in the Dark Autumn wardrobe.

Although it is too cool and too bright to perfectly balance without assistance, the darkness works.

Andie knows this and understands black needs heating up.

Cue warm hair and warm makeup.

Every. Time.

Andie looks beautiful in plain black but even so, it will always be kind of predictable on a Dark Autumn.

For this season black tends to be more effective as an element to an outfit rather than the main affair.

It’s fine but not especially exciting or multi dimensional.

Look at this far more interesting alternative:

As a dark neutral, bitter chocolate has way more soul than black for a Dark Autumn.

The styling here is simple.

No bells or whistles.

But the impact is phenomenal.

When I say a person looks effortless in their colours, or isn’t even trying, this is what I mean.

Warm up black!

I’m always saying to Dark Autumns everywhere.

Here’s Andie showing us exactly what that might look like:

Now to the other end of the value scale.

Ivory and antique lace are Dark Autumn’s version of white.

Mix this ivory with black - or slightly softer, season-friendly versions of it.

The result is much better than true black and white on a Dark Autumn.

Note Andie’s self awareness choosing prints that suit her body shape.

She looks particularly great in irregular, naturalistic patterns.

Here are a few other neutrals.

Even the lighter colours are quite dark.

At least when compared with actual light colours such as those from Spring and Summer.

Dark Autumns can handle a certain level of coolness as demonstrated by that marcasite grey in the middle pic.

Andie deftly avoids pushing it too far into Dark Winter by loading up the heat all around it.

Gold is off-the-charts incredible for Dark Autumns.

The best versions are burnished, dull and antique.

They aren’t shiny or blingy like a slice of the morning sun.

Dark Autumn is the last vestige of day before late afternoon sinks into twilight.

Shadow and flame.

Neutral seasons - blends of cool and warm hue - can wear versions of both gold and silver.

Being a warm season, cool-toned silver needs careful handling for a Dark Autumn to look its best.

Here Andie cleverly repeats her natural level of darkness with this dull tarnished pewter, balancing it with warm hair and makeup.

This is Dark Autumn coolness.

Definitely not bright, clean or shiny.

Mixing warm and cool within the boundaries of the palette can create interesting results.

For that reason, switching silver jewellery for something warm like gold or bronze would be a better option here.

The result is a borderline too cool for a Dark Autumn but Andie still looks very lovely.

Now for some colour!

Oxblood, crimson burgundy and burning coals.

The woman knows her reds!

Purples are blackened aubergine…

…wine-burgundy…

…or warm orchid:

Behold this stunning array of darkly spiced fireplace tones.

Cayenne, paprika, whiskey, chilli, dense gingerbread.

The season’s teals are deep patina and warm petrol…

…while darker blues are the colour of India ink.

Dark Autumn has tons of greens like this rich pistachio…

…shades of classic army…

…and luxe forest.

Pinks are dark salmon and terracotta:

Here Andie introduces us to some season-friendly prints.

Again, it’s clear she understands that asymmetrical patterns really suit her body shape.

Just for fun, here’s our L’Oreal Queen in some vintage ads that capture her Dark Autumnness teamed with 80’s glamour:

Time to break down a few full outfits.

I picked these because it’s unusual to see examples of head-to-toe season-friendly styling down to the very tiniest detail.

Jewellery, shoes, hair, makeup, bags, clothes.

Every. Tiny. Detail.

Here is Andie at the Magic Mike XXL premiere…

…attending a screening of Inside Out at Cannes…

…and the Dior Fall 2020 fashion show:

And how can I miss celebrating this amazing, rarely seen example of Dark Autumn grey hair?

Absolutely fascinating layers of colour dimension.

This is what I’m talking about when I say Dark Autumn grey is bronzed.

Some parts even look greenish, like oxidised metal.

This isn’t sparkly white or steel or so-light-it’s-blonde.

This is iron ore hair.

Threaded with brass, hematite and antique silver.

It’s captivating and unique.

I adore Andie’s choices in artificial hair colours but the decision to go grey is adventurous.

She is totally owning this look and in doing so becomes completely unforgettable.

And now for the piece de resistance.

Check out this utterly genius moment of Dark Autumn styling.

Unbelievable.

What an unexpected and canny colour combination.

Love the burning cognac vibe.

What marvellous head-to-toe natural harmony.

Even down to the season’s most flattering version of gold.

Note how a touch of black adds weight and offsets all that heat?

Once again the structure and cut of the gown perfectly flatters Andie’s frame.

Everything comes together in a unified whole.

Andie is emanating a very special energy.

This has to be one of my ultimate Dark Autumn moments on a red carpet.

It’s rare to see a celeb so fully embracing a natural beauty aesthetic.

The result is timeless, ageless, uncomplicated and inspiring.

Thank you Andie MacDowell!

A true colour icon.