Mailbag: Meet the Lights
/A delightful Light Spring client asked for some insight into the workings of the Lights.
Lights are an extremely misunderstood corner of the colour world.
People tend to dabble in these palettes but few have a good understanding of them.
We are socialised to believe Winter neutrals suits everyone and many people can’t imagine life without darks more broadly.
But there is such a unique magic to high value seasons.
Light Spring and Light Summer represent the most ethereal form of beauty.
Today we are meeting the Lights.
What makes a Light?
Spring and Summer are both high value (light) seasons.
In addition, Spring is also yellow-based (warm) and high chroma (bright).
Conversely Summer is blue-based (cool) and low chroma (soft).
The intersection of these two high value seasons are Light Spring and Light Summer.
Both seem made from air and are extremely delicate.
The same amount of lightness is present in both these seasons.
But the disparity in hue and chroma separates the two.
Light Spring is reminiscent of ice cream and sorbet, fruit juice with soda, and relaxed tropical vibes.
It’s a meadow humming with bees and bathed in glowing yellow sunshine.
Now step underneath a broad, leafy tree at the edge of that meadow.
Note how the shade changes things.
It softens the edges of brightness.
There’s still plenty of light but it’s not as brilliant and yellow.
Everything feels cooler.
We have moved into the realm of Light Summer.
In the natural world, Light colours tend to communicate a context of safety.
They are sunshine, new growth, clean water, freshness.
Nothing unpleasant exists in this colour space.
Light Spring is warm but not hot.
Light Summer is cool but not cold.
With all this light bouncing around, there aren’t any shadows or dark corners.
We can see long distances and differentiate nuanced spaces around us.
As visual, daytime creatures this is comforting.
Nothing is going to creep up on us before we spot it first!
The light banishes anything harsh or dangerous.
It makes these palettes very relaxed.
Lights are all backyard barbeques, picnics, swimming pools, easter egg hunts, and lemonade.
Contained liveliness.
Weather that’s both clement and inviting.
Sitting on the sand chatting with some friends - not a full beach party.
Recreational water sports for the fun of it - not training for competition.
This is summer holidays without a care.
I am not suggesting these palettes cannot be other things.
Any season can be elegant, professional, casual or even slouchy!
Use your colours to create any style personality you like.
I’m just suggesting that capturing the essence of carefree youth is a unique and very special Light superpower.
In different ways, both Light seasons lend themselves to beachiness.
So I’m going to use some oceanic imagery to make my next point.
Think about how light changes as it moves through the cycle of the day.
If you look away from the mid-morning sun to the brilliant arc of blue sky beyond you see the effect of yellow-based sunlight.
The sky is clear and might be cornflower or forget-me-not blue.
The balmy tropical ocean is shallow - light passes right through this crystal clear water.
Colour is transparent.
All that yellow influences the blues, creating a world of turquoise.
Hello Light Spring.
Look towards the late morning sun on a clear day - almost noon.
The light has become a little hazy.
It may be filtered through fluffy clouds.
The high midday sun isn’t yellow, it’s a diffused white.
This slight burn-out lowers the chroma of the blue sky around, turning it a little chalky.
The air might feel warm at this time of the day but the quality of the light is cool.
In this analogy, water is also shallow with tons of light passing through.
When a temperate sun shines on calm water the effect is silvery.
Reflection is shimmery not sparkly.
Welcome Light Summer.
Spring contains the freshest and most vibrant palettes.
Consequently there’s a lot of movement in these colours.
But due to Summer’s calm influence, Light Spring has a slightly softened edge.
It’s less fiesta than other Springs.
Summer’s sense of movement is slower, easier, more composed.
Think clouds scudding across the sky or a babbling brook.
Thanks to that Springtime verve, Light Summer is more energised than other Summers.
Its emblem is a joyful, effervescent rainbow.
And what do you need to create a rainbow?
A little cloud (softness), a little rain (coolness), a little sunshine (a hint of yellow).
That’s Light Summer in a nutshell.
Here’s another comparison between Light Spring and Light Summer.
Which looks sunnier and which looks shadier?
Which looks more vibrant and which calmer?
Warm and bright vs cool and soft?
Light Spring
Light Summer
If we combine the mood of Light Spring with a person (in this case, Noa Vermeer), we get something like this:
While Sasha Pivovarova shows us the spirit of Light Summer might feel like this:
Meet the Lights
Many Light Springs I meet believe they are cool based.
They often recognise their lightness but interpret “lily white” skin as cool and are quite surprised to discover the truth.
Unless natural redheads, their warmth is often less obvious and more subtle.
This is particularly the case because Light Springs - and Light Summers as well - are just so easily washed out.
Most Lights don’t wear their colours regularly, either in clothing or makeup.
I seldom see head-to-toe Light-friendly styling on the red carpet or in photoshoots.
And even when everything else is on-season, there’s almost always some inescapable black eye makeup.
So a Light may go their whole life never seeing themselves in truly harmonious colours.
Let me show you what good looks like for Lights.
Kerry Bishe
Light Spring’s sunny glow is often invisible until the right colours bring it to life.
Kerry rarely wears Lights so I was pleased to be able to find these fantastically demonstrative examples.
Light Summer still captures Kerry's value.
But its coolness washes her out.
And it is connecting with the ashy tones rather than warmth in what should otherwise be a flattering hair choice for Lights.
On the other hand, strawberry blonde Kerry in this all-over peachy champagne takes my breath away.
Rarely have I seen such flawless Light Spring beauty.
Kerry doesn’t get better than this.
Gemma Ward
This is a close one, heh?
Gemma looks truly lovely in both pictures.
And both are terrific examples of light, light, lightness.
Based on the first image alone, you might think Gemma was a Light Summer.
But look at how the peachiness of Light Spring is a totally convincing part of her.
An extension of the whole.
That’s because Gemma is already built from Light Spring colours.
The hair, makeup, nails and outfit in the first picture would be extraordinary on a Light Summer.
But that pretty lilac eyeshadow seems to sit on top of Gemma’s face rather than become absorbed in.
Here’s another example Gemma styled as a Light Spring:
The effect between one element and the next is seamless.
Hair, skin, makeup, outfit.
All cut from the same cloth.
Gemma is still extremely fair but her skin has colour to it - a very light, luminous goldenness.
No wash out in sight.
This is Light warmth trumping Light coolness.
Lili Reinhart
Light Summer Lili Reinhart knows lightness suits her.
She often chooses ethereal, lightly applied makeup looks.
Warm peach and coral tones sit on top of Lili’s face, separate from it.
Youth is very forgiving and the result is still appealing.
But despite a well-matched lightness and beautiful application, the Spring colours seem kind of heavy.
That’s because the warmth is creating the optical illusion of a slightly jaundiced or muddy complexion.
Yet softer, cooler Light Summer is bringing Lili to life.
She doesn’t even seem to be wearing much makeup.
I’m sure she actually is, but the colours are so well chosen it looks effortless.
Note how Light Summer cleans up Lili’s face.
Now she presents as fresh and radiant.
Here’s a couple more images to show you what I mean:
Lili is wearing makeup in all these pictures.
But it is extremely flattering Light Summer makeup teamed with some luminous photography in a light-filled setting.
So she looks like she woke up like this.
Cate Blanchett
Style icon Cate wears all kinds of colours and enjoys exploring fashion.
She does seem to understand lightness suits her but I often see her lean too far into the warm.
Light Spring turns Cate one colour all-over.
The warmth blurs her face and smudges out her features.
She’s become very beige.
This is what I mean when I describe a colour as flattening someone.
Pinks from the Light Summer palette don’t end in this result.
Far from it.
In the cooler tones, Cate’s features are cleaner and clearer.
Makeup for Lights
Makeup-free Lights often look quite similar.
Light Springs may have ash blonde hair and Light Summers a sunny complexion.
Neutral seasons share traits with their neighbour, after all.
Palette-appropriate makeup will connect with the dimensions already present in a person’s natural colouring.
The goal is to replicate flattering colour patterns already present.
Light Spring
Light Summer
I’ve seen articles full of tips about recreating luminous makeup looks.
If you are not a Light, it will be impossible to wear these colours and remain true to your natural beauty.
Each season has something exclusive.
Lights don’t smoulder.
Lights aren’t classic Hollywood siren or pop art brights.
But they absolutely own luminous.
Highlighter is going to be your best friend.
A Light face is not particularly altered by the addition of makeup.
Of course it will even out skin tone, give polish and finish, or illuminate.
But makeup is not as transformative on Lights as other seasons.
If you’re finding your features seem quite changed, you’ve probably gone a little heavy-handed.
Everything shows up on a Light face.
Colours that disappear on others will be noticeable on you.
Depth on a Light would be barely detectable on another season.
Brightness escalates quickly.
This means that its critical to keep evening looks within your colour range.
Winged liner and smoked eyes will look plenty dramatic using your darker neutrals.
A little goes a long way.
And please do not be tempted by black, it will not do you any favours.
(Although it is unfortunately ubiquitous and sometimes I can’t avoid it when using examples.)
As a yellow-based season, sherbet orange or coral, flamingo, light gold, and champagne are wonderful for Light Spring.
Peaches and cream.
As a blue-based season, Light Summers should turn to Turkish delight pinks, dove grey, crushed raspberry, mushroom, and light silver.
Strawberries and cream.
Light Spring
Light Summer
And just for the hell of it, here are a some final examples of sensational Light makeup looks on a few celebrity faves to see us out.
Light Spring
Light Summer
So now you know the Lights.
You’ve been introduced and shared some stories.
Remember them when you engage with the world around you.
Be reminded of their essence in a fresh breeze or early season blossoms.
Lights really are very nice to have around.
